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At the age of 13, Robert Emmett began making his own shirts. What was then a hobby soon led to a tailoring apprentice in Geneva. Despite learning all about the bare bones of clothing; jackets, waistcoats, trousers… the young apprentice who was born in Australia, schooled in England and spent his youth in Switzerland, decided to specialise in what he had been doing since he was a young teenager. And that of course was shirts. He slowly “got into that world” and opened his first shop in Zurich in 1989. Then, together with his Swiss-born architect wife, the pair decided to move to London.

Three months in and not knowing a soul, Robert opened his first eponymous shop in 1992 on the King’s Road, Chelsea. A second store followed in 2006, at 112 Jermyn Street. Of this much-loved street he says: “I don’t know anywhere else in the world that has the unique distinction of being a dedicated street for menswear. You are also right in the heart of Piccadilly, where there are plenty of restaurants and fun things to do. This really is the best thing about London. It brings everyone in.”

Today, the business is a family affair shared with sons, Liam, Joseph and Samuel. The collections fall into several categories, formal and casual, along with made-to-measure that includes shirts, suiting, jackets and trousers. He co-designs with Liam, who you’ll also find modelling shirts on the Emmett London Instagram page.

Says Robert: “It’s a very light-hearted business. I’m not a strict boss, we try and have fun.” As for fabric and style he adds: “When it’s hot we work with lightweight cottons, when it’s cold, we work with heavier materials such as brushed cottons and colourful corduroys. We print shirt materials with the same Como-based printers that we have been working with for 30 years. Just 25-30 shirts are cut per run of fabric, an exacting number set by each 60-metre roll.”

For the bon viveur and shirtmaker, a typical day starts with a strong espresso and a read of the news. He loathes to be tied to the phone and likes to get emails out of the way before 8am. “I have an extended family so there are lots of dinners and gatherings at home. I also like wine, particularly red, and am fortunate that a lot of my friends are wine critics or have an amazing knowledge of wine.”

Back on Jermyn Street, you’ll find Robert enjoying more of the sweet life in his favourite haunts…

Maison François

I had lunch recently there with a chum who makes some of my shirts and we had the most wonderful time. It’s a lovely little restaurant on Bury Street, just off Jermyn Street. It serves a traditional brasserie style of cuisine but is just ever so slightly different. I had the Côte de Veau, Jus, Beurre Noisette, Sauge et Câpres which was fabulous. The veal was perfectly cooked. There’s also a great selection of wine from Bordeaux and the New World to choose from too.

Maison François, 34 Duke Street, St. James’s, London, SW1Y 6DF

 

Hazlitt HollandHibbert

St. James’s is full of superb galleries, but this is one of my absolute favourites. It has an eclectic mix of contemporary and modern art, all British, some of it you like, some of it you don’t, but they often have works that catch my eye. What I don’t like, are some of the prices which are unaffordable for a small shirtmaker! I like abstract art and bold colours. It’s a funny thing with art, like fashion, it has to be personal.

Hazlitt HollandHibbert, 37-38 Bury Street, St. James’s, London SW1Y 6BB

 

The Red Lion

Sometimes, at the end of a busy week, and especially if the boys are particularly thirsty, I’ll take them to the Red Lion pub. Together with another favourite of ours, the Chequers Tavern, also on Duke’s Street, it’s one of those classic old St. James’s pubs where time stands still. As well as being conveniently placed just a few minutes’ walk from our Jermyn Street store, it still has a wonderful old-fashioned interior, complete with bevelled glass windows and dark wood panelling.

The Red Lion, 2 Duke Street, St James’s, London SW1Y 6P