Jermyn Street’s Open Door Series will be honouring the brands and businesses that make our street the home of gentleman’s style, and the pinnacle of British craftsmanship, by spotlighting your favourite brands, and the people behind them, as we invite you through our doors once more!
Tricker’s is iconic among our famed British heritage brands as the longest-established shoemaker. They are renowned for their heavy country boots and shoes, which are still built to the same exacting standards that first cemented their reputation for exceptional quality.
Joseph Tricker founded the company in 1829, in Northampton, a town renowned for its shoemaking. In those days, the desire for Northampton-made shoes was so great that in 1840 there were 1,821 shoemakers working in the town but, even so, the exceptional quality and durability of Tricker’s shoes set them apart. In 1848, Walter James Barltrop, son-in-law to Joseph Tricker, made the first prototype for what would become the Tricker’s famous country, when he was just 7 years old. Though simply executed, it charted the path for what would become the durable, Goodyear welted country boot we know and love today. This spirit of innovation continued to drive the brand forward and, in 1904, they opened their factory at 56-60 St. Michael’s Rd, Northampton, where it still stands to this day, as a Grade II listed building. At around this time, Tricker’s acquired their first Goodyear welting machine and, after returning from a buying trip to New York, Walter James Barltrop realised it was unique compared to other machines on the market. This innovative machine made it possible to sew a shoe’s upper to the insole without having to attach the undersole with the same stitching. This meant it was possible to create a well-made and aesthetically pleasing shoe with the help of a machine instead of solely by hand. Though the Goodyear welting machine revolutionised their manufacturing process, it certainly did not change Tricker’s commitment to quality and durability.
The Tricker’s Goodyear Welted Boot went through rapid development from Walter James Barltrop’s first prototype but quickly arrived at its final form and has remained unchanged ever since. It was the perfect country boot and was worn by everyone from estate managers to the landed gentry; its comfort and practicality appealed to all who tried it. In the 1920s, Tricker’s created the Museum Calf Town collection, a range of men’s shoes which proved extremely popular for both town and country wear. Today, Tricker’s boots and shoes are worn for all occasions and The Bourton Brogue and Stow Boot remain the cornerstone of the Tricker’s business. The brand is a true icon of British heritage design, with their irreproachable character, striking silhouettes and unrivalled quality. They were recognised for these very qualities by His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales when, in 1989, he awarded them a Royal Warrant for shoe manufacturing.
In 2019, Tricker’s celebrated 190 years in the business, as Britain’s oldest shoe manufacturer, and HRH The Prince of Wales unveiled a plaque in their Northampton factory to commemorate this. Though they have a rich heritage, Tricker’s have continued to move with the times and have an impressive commitment to sustainability which is testament to the brand’s ethos. They offer Olivenleder® options for their footwear, a process which uses an all-natural tanning procedure. In this process, an essence from olive leaves is used for tanning and, not only is it organic and chemical-free, it is also a bi-product of the food industry, diverted from being burnt as waste, thereby avoiding the environmental impact of that process.
Conserving and repairing, rather than simply buying new and replacing, is at the heart of Tricker’s manufacturing process. Not only are Tricker’s shoes built to last, but the company also offers an extensive repair service, so your Tricker’s shoes should last a lifetime no matter what you get up to in them.
Tricker’s have been through five generations of family in their 190 year history and are still family-owned today. Their iconic shop at 67 Jermyn Street opened in 1937 and retains its original panelling and wooden shoe cabinets which, if you look closely, have scratch marks caused by shattered glass from when bombs fell on London during World War Two. Tricker’s are now a globally-recognised brand, with Japan equating to thirty per cent of their export business, and you can now buy Tricker’s footwear in over 43 countries around the world. Tricker’s uncompromising standards of craftsmanship, innovation and use of honest materials, means that, 190 years from their inception, they are still at the forefront of British footwear, and Jermyn Street wouldn’t be the same without them.